Bingtanghulu (冰糖葫芦) is one of the most recognizable traditional snacks associated with Beijing. It is made by threading hawthorn berries onto bamboo skewers and coating them with a thin layer of hot sugar syrup. Once the syrup cools and hardens, it forms a clear, glossy, and crisp shell around the fruit. The combination of tart fruit and sweet, crunchy sugar makes Bingtanghulu a distinctive winter treat.

Although hawthorn is now the most common ingredient, traditional Bingtanghulu can be made with a variety of fruits and other fillings. Historical descriptions mention ingredients such as hawthorn, crabapple, grapes, Chinese yam, walnuts, and sweet bean paste coated with sugar.

History of Bingtanghulu

The exact origin of Bingtanghulu is uncertain. A popular legend connects its origins with the Southern Song Dynasty, when an imperial consort is said to have recovered from an illness after eating hawthorn cooked with rock sugar. The story later became associated with the development of candied hawthorn as a popular snack. However, this account is generally regarded as a traditional legend rather than firmly established history.

More reliable historical evidence shows that candied fruit similar to modern Bingtanghulu was already known in China centuries ago. A late-Qing work, the Yanjing Suishi Ji (《燕京岁时记》), describes fruit and other ingredients threaded onto bamboo skewers and coated with sugar, producing a snack that was sweet, crisp, and cool.

By the Republican period, Bingtanghulu had become especially popular in Beijing. Street vendors, food shops, markets, theaters, and temple fairs all sold different varieties. Famous traditional businesses included Jiulongzhai and Xinyuanzhai, while Bingtanghulu sold at the former Dong’an Market was also particularly well known.

How Bingtanghulu Is Made

Traditional Bingtanghulu is relatively simple in terms of ingredients, but making a good sugar coating requires considerable skill.

First, fresh hawthorn berries are cleaned and their pits are removed. The berries are then threaded onto bamboo skewers.

Sugar is heated with water in a pot until it reaches the correct temperature and consistency. This stage is considered the most important part of making Bingtanghulu. If the syrup is undercooked, it remains sticky and soft; if it is overheated, it can become too dark and develop a bitter taste.

The skewered fruit is quickly dipped or rolled in the hot syrup, creating a thin coating. The skewers are then placed on a cool, lightly dampened surface, where the syrup rapidly hardens into a transparent, glass-like shell.

Traditional Ingredients

The classic Beijing version is made with hawthorn, known locally as shanzha or shanlihong. However, other ingredients have also traditionally been used, including:

• Hawthorn
• Chinese crabapple
• Grapes
• Chinese yam
• Chinese yam beans
• Walnuts
• Dried apricots
• Water chestnuts
• Sweet bean paste
• Sesame and melon seeds

Hawthorn remains the most traditional and widely recognized choice, while modern versions can feature strawberries, grapes, and other fruits.

A Symbol of Beijing Winter

Bingtanghulu is particularly associated with winter in northern China. Cold weather helps the sugar coating harden quickly and keeps it crisp. Traditionally, vendors would carry long skewers of bright red candied hawthorn through Beijing’s streets and temple fairs, attracting customers with their distinctive appearance and calls.

The bright red fruit also gives the snack a festive appearance, making it especially popular around the Chinese New Year season.

For many people, Bingtanghulu is more than just a snack. Its bright color, crisp sugar shell, and sweet-and-sour flavor have become closely associated with Old Beijing street culture and childhood memories.

Flavor and Texture

A traditional Bingtanghulu has three distinctive characteristics:

Crisp sugar coating: The hardened syrup should break with a light crunch when bitten.

Tart fruit: Hawthorn provides a naturally sour and slightly fruity flavor.

Sweet-and-sour balance: The combination of tart hawthorn and sweet sugar creates its signature flavor.

The contrast between the cold, crisp sugar shell and the soft, tart fruit inside is one of the defining features of this traditional Beijing snack.

Chinese name: 冰糖葫芦
Pinyin: Bīngtánghúlu
English name: Bingtanghulu / Candied Hawthorn Skewers
Type: Traditional Beijing snack
Main ingredient: Hawthorn
Other ingredients: Various fruits, nuts, and sweet fillings
Cooking method: Sugar coating
Texture: Crisp outside, soft and juicy inside
Flavor: Sweet and sour
Season: Traditionally associated with autumn and winter
Cultural association: Old Beijing street food and temple fairs